Why NOT buy a Sailrite Sewing Machine?

[NickfromWI]

Wow! Thanks for the great responses!

I went ahead and bought the Deluxe model of the LSZ-1. I think it will be just fine for what I needed. I was looking for something that can do light work, and maybe 30% of the time, I will be sewing heavy stuff (sewing bar tacks of my climbing harness to attach gear loops, etc).

I have had it for about a week now and am quite pleased. I can sew regular home thread on it, or heavy v-92 or v-138 if I'd like. One slight prob is I can't find anywhere in Los Angeles that sells that heavy stuff and now might have to place ANOTHER order to buy some.

The one problem I have noticed is that if I sew many layers of fabric together, the layers shift. I'll get to the end of the seam and have a 1" overlap. Maybe I have to start pinning the layers together?

I think you were right Brent. I really got the impression that I was buying from a super reputable company that was going to help me have an enjoyable experience with my machine. So far, I'm glad I bought the machine.

love
nick

[Essington]

Originally Posted by NickfromWI

I have had it for about a week now and am quite pleased. I can sew regular home thread on it, or heavy v-92 or v-138 if I'd like. One slight prob is I can't find anywhere in Los Angeles that sells that heavy stuff and now might have to place ANOTHER order to buy some.

First check upholstery shops, they are likely to have something that heavy. However If you've got to order, I think Astrup has two distribution centers in California.

The next trick is deciding what kind of v-92 or v-138 thread to use! Selecting the best thread for the job is nearly as complicated as picking out the sewing machine. Nylon really makes for bombproof seams since it is much more elastic than polyester, but it doesn't survive so well in the sun. I personally like Tenara thread. It is a Gore product that is specifically designed to survive outside. It doesn't deteriorate in the elements the way nylon and polyester do, but it is like 10 times as expensive.

Originally Posted by NickfromWI

The one problem I have noticed is that if I sew many layers of fabric together, the layers shift. I'll get to the end of the seam and have a 1" overlap. Maybe I have to start pinning the layers together?

That is a bit of a "feature" of the drop feed machine, and also a bit of operator input.
I worked in a production sewing shop for many years, and the only thing we ever used pins for was to hold the loose end of a webbing roll.
If you have days to pin and unpin things, then that is certainly one route to go, but the easier way is to add timing marks along long runs (these are small slits or Vs cut into the material) then as you are sewing along, you can see which layers have managed to sneak ahead of the others, then by applying a bit of extra tension (lightly hold back the top or bottom layer with your hand) to those layers, you can make everything match up by the time you get to the end.

good luck with the new machine

-jason

[Rosieis1]

Originally Posted by NickfromWI

The one problem I have noticed is that if I sew many layers of fabric together, the layers shift. I'll get to the end of the seam and have a 1" overlap. Maybe I have to start pinning the layers together?
love
nick

Try using seamstick from Sailrite. This is a double sided tape that goes between the layers of fabric and hold them while you sew. For Sunbrella use 3/8" Rubber Based for Canvas Visit: http://www.sailrite.com/seamstick-rubber-based and your job will be much easier. Most canvas shops use this stuff.